Burglary protection: what really helps – and what doesn't

Mechanics beat electronics

The most effective protection begins at the door and window, not at the power socket. High-quality cylinders with drill and pull protection, solid security fittings, mushroom-head locking and cross-bar locks make levering open much harder. The reason is simple: the vast majority of burglars are not professionals with special tools, but opportunists who want to lever open a window or patio door with a screwdriver in seconds. Good mechanics take exactly those seconds away from them.

An alarm system has its place – but it only reports the burglary, it doesn't prevent it. Anyone who invests in the mechanics first and thinks about alerting afterwards spends their money in the right order.

The 3-minute rule: why time is the best protection

Crime statistics and surveys show a clear pattern: most perpetrators give up if they don't get in within about three to five minutes. Every additional resistance raises the risk of discovery and the effort required. That's exactly why mechanical burglary protection works so well: it turns a quick, quiet levering attempt into loud, lengthy work that no opportunist wants to go through with. A considerable share of all burglaries therefore stays at the attempt stage.

What are RC classes?

RC stands for “Resistance Class” under the European standard. It indicates how long a component withstands which tool use. For private homes RC2 is usually the sensible standard – this class withstands the typical opportunistic tools such as screwdriver, pliers and a small crowbar. RC3 is sensible for higher demands or exposed locations. We advise you which class suits your living situation, without selling you a more expensive level than you need.

Weak points that are often forgotten

The best front door is of little use if other ways are open. These weak points are most often overlooked:

• Tilted windows are practically open windows for burglars – opened in seconds.
• Basement windows and light wells are hidden and rarely secured.
• Windows reachable with garden furniture or bins on the ground and upper floors.
• Doors only pulled shut instead of locked – the latch alone stops no levering attempt.
• Patio and balcony doors on the non-visible rear of the house.

Where you should start

If you don't want to do everything at once, start where the risk is greatest: at the most easily reachable and least visible door or window. That's usually the patio or basement door at the back of the house. A lockable window handle, mushroom-head locking or an additional lock cost a manageable amount and bring noticeably more security straight away. We look at your situation and suggest the measures with the best cost-to-benefit ratio – step by step instead of an expensive complete package.